Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Meet Elliott, Our Mascot


Elliott has been cruising with us since 2006, so this is his 7th year of cruising! He was born in the jungles/rain forests of Panama and adopted by me. He loves shipboard activities... you may see him at the disco, horse races, or even in the dining room (he is partial to bananas)...

Cattail Adriatic Cruise 2012

We are going on this one! It's 13 days starting in Venice and ending in Rome on Celebrity Silhouette. I am excited by the itinerary and the ship!  Our cruise will embark and overnight in Venice. I can't wait to get back to Venice! Spritz con aperol, gelato, pizza, pasta, seafood, gondolas, murano glass, burano lace, handsome gondoliers flexing their muscles, water water everywhere!

Adriatic Cruise Itinerary

13 Day Cruise May 30 - June 12, 2012 on Celebrity Silhouette

Wed. May 30 Venice, Italy – embark and overnight on the ship
Thur. May 31 Venice, Italy – depart 5 pm
Fri. June 1 Ravenna, Italy 7 am – 6 pm
Sat. June 2 Koper, Slovenia 8 am – 6 pm
Sun. June 3 Split, Croatia 8 am – 6 pm
Mon. June 4 Dubrovnik, Croatia 8 am – 6 pm
Tues. June 5 Kotor, Montenegro 8 am – 6 pm
Wed. June 6 Bari, Italy 8 am - 6 pm
Thur. June 7 Corfu, Greece 8 am – 6 pm
Fri. June 8 At Sea
Sat. June 9 Valletta, Malta 8 am – 6 pm
Sun. June 10 Sicily (Messina), Italy 8 am – 6 pm
Mon. June 11 Naples/Capri, Italy 7 am – 6:30 pm
Tues. June 12 Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy arrive 4:30 am Disembark ship

Adriatic Cruise Itinerary Map


Monday, March 5, 2012

European Travel Tips: Money Matters

All of the countries that we will visit use the Euro as currency, with the exception of Croatia. Croatia uses the Kuna. Now for a bit of trivia..."kuna" means marten, a weasel like animal, whose fur Croats used for payment many centuries ago!

Ken & I plan to get some US dollars exchanged for Euros before our departure. Note that credit cards (Visa and MasterCard much more than American Express) are accepted in most shops & restaurants worldwide. Just a note regarding credit cards: note that credit cards with chips rather than magnetic strips are more common in Europe; so you may not be able to get cash from an ATM unless your card has a chip. Not all US credit card companies issue cards with chips but we were able to get one from a credit union last year prior to our overseas trip. It is very easy to use ATMs in Europe to withdraw local currency and the charge is minimal; just be sure that you have a 4-digit PIN. As far as "spending money", cash is needed for some street vendors' touristy items, private tours and for taxis, etc. Remember that tour guides are usually given a tip... it can be in US dollars or Euros for ship's tours; for private tours, it should be in local currency.

Please be sure to let your credit card company know that you will be abroad. Also, have a way to secure your money and credit cards (i.e., inside shirt, belt, etc.) I usually take a small backpack with handwipes, lipgloss, camera, sunscreen, water, etc., but have my money, credit card, etc. close to my body.

Countdown to our Adriatic cruise!


Read and post cruise reviews

European Travel Tips - Restrooms

I will be posting a few travel tips throughout this blog. Here is an important one to note! Bathrooms: In Europe the bathrooms (or WCs aka water closets) are always a challenge. Always have a few coins of local currency with you, as you may be charged for the privilege of using the WC. Of course, my favorite option is to locate a cafe, pub, trattoria, or bistro and stop for a glass of local wine, beer, or caffe.... then there is no charge for the WC! You may find a toilet seat or you may find a trough type toilet that you are supposed to squat over. If you are lucky you will find toilet paper, but often as not, you must provide your own. I always carry a small pouch of Kleenex with me for this purpose. Once you complete your business, it can be a challenge figuring out how to flush the toilet. You may have to push, pull or wiggle any type of handle you can find within arm’s (or leg’s) reach. OK, that all being said, I don't expect to find many primitive type WCs on our cruise!

My Favorite Limoncello Recipe


After first being introduced to limoncello in Italy, an Italian neighbor gave me his special recipe.  Since that time, I've made quite a few "batches"!

Salvatore’s Italian Limoncello

One bottle Everclear (grain alcohol)
8 lemons
2 pounds sugar and one quart water – to make simple syrup.

Wash the lemons and pat dry.  Using a potato peeler, take all the lemon rinds off of the lemons so there is no white pith on the peel.  Place the rind peelings in a large container with the Everclear alcohol.  Cover the container and let it sit for seven days.

On the eighth day, strain the peels from the alcohol; discard peels.

In a large saucepan, make a simple syrup by combining the water and sugar; let it simmer for 15 minutes. Let simple syrup cool to room temperature.  Add to alcohol.  Pour into bottles.  Makes enough to share with friends!

Chill (in refrigerator or freezer).
You are now finished!  Enjoy!

Venice!



Ah, Venezia! City of Love, City of Light, City of Water, City of Bridges, Queen of the Adriatic... so many wonderful nicknames for an enchanting city. Click here for a wonderful Youtube video of Venice.

We embark Silhouette on May 30th and overnight in Venice so we get to spend one night in this beautiful place!  If anyone wants to stay several nights before the cruise embarks, I highly recommend the Papadapoli Venezia located in Santa Croce on a canal and not far from Piazzali Roma. We stayed here a few years ago and found it be very lovely and convenient.

Want to avoid queues and get tickets in advance? Click here and you can purchase tickets for the Doges Palace, Doges Palace Secret Itineraries Tour and other museums. On the Secret Itineraries tour, you will see the secret passageways and offices of the Doges, where Cassanova was imprisoned and much more. Go to the fish market near Rialto for lunch, the Jewish Ghetto (at the museum they will give a guided tour) At night sit down in St. Marks Square for the most expensive cup of caffe you have ever had, but listen to the most wonderful violin music. Stop and have a gelato….feed the pigeons and visit the bell tower, the church, take a gondola ride, especially an evening gondola ride with serenade!

Shopping in Venice? How about Murano glass? glass cherries and glass candies make a beautiful display in a glass vase or bowl on a coffee table, Murano glass wine bottle stoppers, glass jewelry, glass beads (also known as Venetian pearls)… Walk into the back areas of Venice (with a map!) and just wander; you'll come across many lovely smaller shops with the most spectacular pieces in their shop windows (i.e. get further away from the Grand Canal) and perhaps be able to negotiate a little if you pay cash and come away with a stunning piece (or more)! Venetian Carnevale masks are also beautiful souvenirs! Don't miss the fabulous jewelry shops surrounding Piazza San Marco; if you like fine jewelry....some of the most beautiful and original design and interesting stones in the world! Also if you like fine linens, the table and bed linens are wonderful!

Italian tenors interest you? How about this for a nice Venetian evening: An opera performed in a historic Venetian Palace, Musica Palazza. Here's a youtube video for an online experience of the performance and palace. 


Venice's Top 11 Free Sights
From: Venice for Visitors, http://veniceforvisitors.com

1. Piazza San Marco

2. Basilica di San Marco

3. Venice Waterfront (St. Mark's Basin)

4. Grand Canal

5. Rialto Bridge

6. Rialto Food Markets

7. Venetian Ghetto

8. Canali, campi, calli (canals, squares, and back streets)

9. Churches (Salute, Carmini, and others that don't charge admission)

10. Shopping Streets

11. Islands of the Lagoon (San Michele cemetery, Murano, Burano, Torcello, Lido)

Concerning WCs in Venice: There are public wc's and the cost is generally 1.5 Euro. As in any European country, be sure to bring some toilet paper in your bag or backpack. Of course, you can always stop for a glass of vino or a cup of caffe and use the restaurant wc!

Some links to helpful website:
Venice Connected
Port of Venice Information for Cruise Passengers
Venice for Visitors

Dubrovnik, Croatia

George Bernard Shaw was enchanted by this beautiful city, about which he said "those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and see Dubrovnik", as well as, famously, describing it as "the pearl of the Adriatic". Dubrovnik will not disappoint as we can attest! I think we will be anchored in the old port. You will be able to walk into the old town in about 3 minutes. On the main street, the Stradun, you will find several ATM machines to obtain Croatian Kuna.

The old town, with its well preserved city walls is a destination unto itself. Be sure to walk the walls - Due to my fear of heights, on my previous attempt (yes attempt!), I did really well but didn't make it all the way around (or all the way up in some cases). The walls and towers begged to be climbed and explored and they completely encircle the old city. This is quite an exhilerating experience with superb views of the city and the coastline. It will take about 2 hours to walk the walls completely and you will be charged a small fee. Be sure to take your camera!

The old city is fun to explore with its maze of small streets. As you explore, you should take some of the side streets to go higher and higher. You will see many outdoor cafes, boutiques with local souvenirs, wines, etc., and residences. You will be smiling as the residents of Dubrovnik are so friendly... and the food is so good! The Stradum is the "main street", often called the most beautiful street in the world. It begins with a monastery and ends with a great square with a Venetian-style palace and a beautiful church... but venture onto the side streets and the streets that run parallel to it, on the water side. There you will find more unique restaurants and shops.

Shopping anyone? One shopping find is at the working pharmacy in the Franciscan Monastery, just inside the Pile Gate. The pharmacy makes several face and hand creams and infused water (rose and lavendar) to original recipes from 1317 and sells them in the shop. If you tell them its for gifts, they will put them in special bags too. Examples are lemon hand lotion, rose face cream, and a moisturizer with jojoba and menthol that smells like lemon yogurt. Other local items include home made honey, Croatian neckties (neckties may have originated here!), embroidered linens, and filagree dangly earrings

Hungry after walking the walls? How about Restaurant Orhan? Want to try a local wine? Peljesac red wine is wonderful.

Click here for a map of Old Town Dubrovnik. or here for another map

Split, Croatia

The Celebrity Silhouette will be in Split from 8 am - 6 pm, & it's a Sunday... so I hope things will be open for business!

Overlooking the Adriatic Sea and backed by the Dinaric Mountains, Split was founded when Diocletian, a ruler of the Roman Empire for two decades, built his retirement home here in AD 295. Most of Split's monuments are located in Grad, the old town, where you can see Diocletian's Palace. Grad is pedestrian only so you will have fun wandering in the old city.

East of the town walls, you will find the colorful markets. The official word for open-air markets in Croatian is Trznica, but in Split these cult places of local food shopping are called Pazar and they are open daily & more importantly for us, on Sundays from 8-11 am. You can stroll around the tables laden with fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers, meats, seafood and cheeses (don't miss the opportunity to try Livanjski sir or paski sir, local cheeses). Here you will also find fresh honey products ranging from Kadulja honey from Biokovo to Lavender honey from Hvar.

There is a hop-on hop-off bus which is a great way to see Split, or you can arrange a walking tour. On our last visit to Split, we did both.  The HOHO bus takes you around Split and up to the mountain top for some special views.  The walking tour was great... you can do it on your own, but it was so nice to have a guide explain what we were seeing.  After the tour, we headed to an outdoor cafe for some Croatian wine, refreshment, and people watching.

A bit of Croatian trivia: The original “Croata” tie - a neck tie was first worn by Croatian horsemen who fought on the European fronts from the 17th century to the French revolution; at which time the French adopted this fashion and gave it the name “cravate” (meaning “Croat”).

Click here for a youtube video of Split, courtesy of Rick Steves!
Click here for a website with lots of great information on Split!

Corfu, Greece

We will be docked in Corfu (Kerkyra) on Thursday, June 7th from 8 am - 6 pm. Corfu is the greenest, much lush, of the Greek isles and is often called the Emerald Island. The mean temperature in June is 75 degrees F. Distance from the pier to the town is about 2 miles (20-30 minute walk) but taxis will be readily available.  Corfu's Greek name, Kerkyra, is connected to 2 powerful water symbols; Poseidon, god of the sea and Asopos, an important Greek mainland river. Two fortresses (or castles) enclose the old city of Corfu Town.  Two years ago when we visited Corfu, we spied a shuttle bus to centre for 1.20 Euro, so we hopped on that without a second thought! It was a good thing, as we walked and climbed and walked and climbed in the old town... up to the tippity top of the Fortress to get those great photo ops! It never ceases to amaze me when I see ancient buildings and ruins. It's difficult to imagine such ancient times with gods & goddesses and gladiators, etc.

After our self made tour to the top of the Fortress and such, it was time for a "traditional Greek lunch" ... so we found a cafe, Piperitsa, Plakada Agiou, near St. Spyridon Square. We chose well... OK, I will give credit to Ken as he chose it! We both ordered a Greek salad and white wine for me and red wine for Ken. Our salads were so beautiful, that I took a photo, which I just may submit to a magazine!!!! I have ordered many Greek salads, but this one "took the cake" so to speak. It was amazingly beautiful and yummy. Fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, butter lettuce, Kalamata olives, feta cheese (of course!) and olive oil/vinegar for dressing. This is a memory that will indeed last forever. We got to know the family owners, (mom, pop, 10 year old daughter, puppy dog) and we plan to have lunch at Piperitsa again!

My Greek Salad at Piperitsa

'Corfu town is Venice and Naples, a touch of France and more than a dash of England, apart of course from being Greek' - Countess Flamburiari. Old Corfu Town is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets dominated by a 16th century fortress.

A visit to the Achillion Palace, built by Queen Sissy of Austria at the end of the 19th century is a highlight. The Empress's obsession with the Greek mythology and especially with Homer's Iliad & Ulysses influenced the whole architecture and decoration of the palace, which is built in neo-classical style and has elements of Ionian, Roman and Eolithic styles. Its gardens are decorated by many sculptures and have stunning views on the island.

After Achillion Palace you will come to Corfu Town, where you will see the exceptional mixture of architecture influenced by four great civilizations: the Old Fortress, New Fortress, famous Liston Street, the Royal Palace, and of course the Saint Spyridon church, named after the Patron Saint of the island.

Map of Old Town Corfu - includes locations of sites for a do-it-yourself walking tour.

Shopping
You will find small shops of almost every commercial nature, including a multitude of gold shops; Corfiot craftsmen excel at designing and making Greek jewelry in gold at competitive prices. Small stalls with local wild honey, fig cakes, and hand made lace may tempt you too. Pottery, leather goods, olive wood objects make nice remembrances. Shops are generally open from 9am-2pm and 6pm-8:30pm Monday through Saturday.

Lunching
The Old Town is packed with tavernas, restaurants, and cafes. Many will have outdoor seating, great for people watching and enjoying the Grecian sunshine! The most famous Corfiot dishes show the influence made on the island by the Venetians: Pastitsada is a meat and pasta dish, Bourdeto is a peppery fish stew, Bianco is a white fish stew infused with garlic and Sofrito consists of sliced veal cooked with garlic, parsley and vinegar. However, the traditional meat in Corfiot cooking is lamb and it features in many of the island’s day-to-day dishes, although pork, beef and chicken are also popular choices. The meats are cooked with Corfiot herbs; mainly oregano, parsley, dill, mint and basil and are often grilled or roasted with onions and garlic. If you're a seafood fan, you won't be disappointed as the Corfiots like to eat their fish almost as soon as it is off the hook! Seafood will usually be baked or grilled over open fires & local herbs, olive oil and lemon are used for seasoning.


Another Corfu sampling would include the kumquat, a small bittersweet tasting orange, not found anywhere else in Greece. They are preserved and eaten whole or soaked in syrup. Kumquats have been called "the little gems of the citrus family", and local Corfiots seized on the opportunity, once they realized that the fruit could be fermented and distilled into liquors. As well as liquors, kumquats are made into sweets and marmalades. Many of the tourist shops in Corfu sell Kumquat products one of the more famous shops you will find is located next to the "Achillion Palace"

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Naples/Capri/Amalfi Coast, Italy

Napoli, Capri, Pompeii, and the beautiful Amalfi Coast - picture postcard perfection!  This will be our fourth visit here and I am looking forward to it as much as my first visit!  

The first time we were in Naples, we took the ship’s tour which included Pompeii, Sorrento and Capri.  Be sure to see Pompeii; there is nothing like it in the world.  The Isle of Capri is beautiful!  It was a full day but we saw a lot.  We had lunch in a wonderful restaurant in Sorrento and I remember the waiter serving me profiteroles for dessert and saying “Amore” while he did so. 
  
Ah, ItalyThe next time we were in Naples, we once again took a ship’s tour which included an olive and lemon farm.  We saw how olive oil is made.   We were served a light lunch of Italian cheeses, salami, wine, and limoncello!   Delightful!  Another time we took a tour which allowed us to spend a bit of time in Sorrento where I shopped for Italian figurines and pottery.   We also made another trip to a family farm where we had an wonderful lunch of antipasto, pasta, cheeses, bread, olive oil, and wine... followed by a limoncello tasting!  I dream of it still!

The next time, we did an independent tour of the Amalfi Coast with a group of 6.   We saw Amalfi, Positano, Ravello, and had a wonderful Italian lunch in a charming local family-owned restaurant overlooking the sea.  The lunch was a family style tasting menu and included wine and all flavors of limoncello.  I bought some beautiful pottery, some watercolor paintings, and, of course, limoncello.  Roberto, our guide, was excellent... both as a guide and a driver as we squeezed past vehicles on those hair pin turns.  Many vehicles are without side mirrors as they have been knocked off on these narrow mountain roads! 

This year, we may explore Naples on our own, since we have never really seen Naples!  I like the idea of a fellow cruiser to have a quest for the best pizza in Naples!  As pizza originated in Naples, this makes sense to me.  The Margherita - tomato, mozzarella, & basil, for the three colors of the Italian flag is a local favorite.  It was created in  honor of the visit of Queen Margherita of Spain in 1889.  Interestingly enough, Eggplant Parmesan also originated in Naples.  Another regional specialty is linguine cozze e vongole (spaghetti with clams or mussels)  as seafood is abundant and excellent. 


Click here for information on Naples Sight Seeing HOHO Tours.  You purchase only one ticket for up to three routes.  Frommers has a great map of a self guided walking tour of Naples. 


Though I can be claustrophobic at times, I want to do the Underground Walking Tour in Naples.  The New York Times has a great article about this city under the city.  You can also learn more at the Napoli Sotterranea site


Friday, March 2, 2012

Rome - The Eternal City, The City of Fountains


 
Roma!  What can I say?  It is wonderful!  Rome is one and a half hours from the port of Civitavecchia.  You won’t have enough time to see everything, so try to get to the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain (be sure to toss some coins to insure  your return to Rome), the Pantheon, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, and the Vatican Museum if you can. We took a ship sponsored tour on our first Mediterranean cruise and were not disappointed.  We saw all of the sites and had a traditional Italian lunch complete with wine!  I was so enchanted that I asked the maitre d’ for a souvenir book of matches and he gave me a bottle of Chianti, saying “For you… Come Back to Roma, Ciao” and then a big hug and kisses on both cheeks.  We enjoyed the Chianti on our balcony later that evening while listening to Andrea Bocelli’s “Con Te Partiro! 

The next time we arrived by cruise ship, we took the ship’s tour “Rome on your Own”.   The tour bus takes you to Rome, drops you off in Vatican City, and brings you back to the ship later that day.  Rome is very walkable, but you will need a map, which you will get from your bus driver.  There are several hop-on hop-off buses that will give you a great overview.  If you do Rome on your own, be sure to have lunch in Piazza Navona.  It’s one of the fun piazzas in Rome with lots of musicians serenading you as you dine.  And most definitely be sure to have gelato!  It is “out of this world”! 

The third time we visited Rome, we spent several days before embarking our cruise so we got a true feel for Roma. Once again, we did the hop-on hop-off bus and visited all the great sites & had lunch in a most wonderful pizzeria, complete with the best salad I've had in my entire life and wonderful vino... Ken had the house red & I had the house white.  The house wines in Italy are to die for!  The pizzas aren't so great in Rome but the pasta is pretty good.  
This time we stayed at the MarcellaRoyal Rome & I highly recommend it, as well as Stefano of RomeCabs who provided our transfers.  Stefano also provides wonderful tours of Rome as well.  The Marcella Royal Hotel is a boutique hotel in a quieter neighborhood of Rome; but it’s only about a 15 to 20 minute walk from some of the major historical sites.