Friday, August 14, 2015

St. Peter Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands

Guernsey will be a tender port.  Guernsey, with an area of 24.3 sq. miles, is a tender port and is fairly exposed to the elements, so the tender ride can be 'interesting'; but if it's too rough then, as with all tender ports, there is the chance it could be cancelled. St. Peter Port is Guernsey's main town and was "put on the map" in 1855 when Victor Hugo, exiled from France, made his home at Hauteville House, where he wrote Les Miserables. The French impressionist painter, Pierre-Auguste Renoir spent a little over a month on Guernsey in late summer of 1883, staying in lodgings in St. Peter Port. He painted about 15 pictures on the island... click here for "Children by the Sea in Guernsey".

Here's a beautiful Youtube video of Guernsey!

 (thanks to my friend, Diana, for the photo)

The traditional language of Guernsey is Dgernesiais, hailing to the day of William the Conqueror (oh, by the way, I found out that William is my ancestor during my geneology research!). Mostly heard spoken by "pensioners", there has been a resurgence of interest in this Norman French dialect in Guernsey.

How about food? Islanders have an enduring passion ­ for food. Norman roots and a cosmopolitan seafaring heritage combine with the perfect gardening climate, bountiful sea and arguably the best milk in the world to make this a paradise for eating and drinking. Summer in Guernsey is all about al fresco dining, with long cliff top lunches and leisurely gatherings at old farmhouse restaurants. One of the locals’ best-kept secrets is fresh fish and chips and chilled local cider. Another foodie "to do" is to have a Guernsey Gache (pronounced "gosh")with local butter. There's nothing like it anywhere else! Click here for the recipe.

I read the book, "The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Society". It's a neat fictional book (with a lot of facts) that takes place on the island during and after WWII.

Guernsey was occupied by the Germans during WWII so you can see a lot of emplacements around the island, including the underground hospital. The "Little Chapel" is also interesting and will likely get you a chance to see Guernsey cows.

The local bus service is excellent for tourists; just be aware that it only comes by some of the stops once an hour! It's cheap and frequent during the daytime hours. If you want a taxi there will be plenty.

You'll dock by tender and then you can take a less than 5 minute walk before you're actually in the city centre. If you want to stay in St Peter Port, then there are plenty of shops and restaurants to keep you amused.  If you're in search of a restaurant for lunch, there are plenty of choices, including everything from Chinese to Italian.   Christies gets great reviews as does Pier 17.

When it comes to shopping just be aware that despite being portrayed as a tax free Island, a lot of the retailers charge the exact same price as in their UK stores.

Some island recommendations are:

* The Little Chapel at Les Vauxbelets is thought to be the smallest church in the world, with space for a priest and a congregation of just two.
* Castle Cornet overlooks the harbour and built during the reign of King Stephen; it has influences from many eras, through to the German occupation of World War II. It also contains the Royal Guernsey Militia Museum, a Maritime Museum and attractive gardens.
* Victor Hugo's house
* German occupation museum, which gives a glimpse of island life during German occupation in WWII
* German underground hospital (I've heard that it's got a real atmosphere)
* Fort Grey (if you're interested in nautical history)

Recipe for Guernsey Gache

Since cooking is one of my passions, here's a recipe for Guernsey Gache! .. perhaps worth a try before we get to Guernsey!

One of Guernsey’s definitive delicacies is Guernsey Gâche (pronounced "gosh"). Tune in your taste buds before you visit, with this genuine recipe and it's easy to make too!

Guernsey Gâche

Ingredients
I.5 lbs wholemeal or plain flour
1.5 lbs Guernsey butter
Two free range eggs
4 oz candied orange peel
1 lb sultanas (currants may be used, if preferred)
Quarter pint of Guernsey milk
2 oz yeast
Pinch of salt
2 oz dark brown sugar

Preparation
Wash and dry the fruit. Cream the butter with sugar, add the eggs and then mix in the flour. Warm the milk, add the yeast and a pinch of salt. Make a depression in the dough and pour in the milk with the added yeast and mix well, adding the fruit and kneading like bread.

Leave to rise for two hours in a warm room. Knock back and then knead again. Grease a loaf tin and put in the prepared gâche.

Cooking
Cook for one hour in a moderate oven, until golden brown. Best served with cider from the jug, whilst hay making.

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Cork & Cobh, Ireland



 
Our ship will dock in Cobh, the jumping off point for Cobh, Blarney Castle, Woolen Mills, and more! First things first: Cobh is pronounced "Cove"! I was very politely corrected when I was asking a British friend what we should see & do in "Cobb". "Your Window on Cobh and Cork" click for good information. Cobh became the country's main immigration port following the Great Famine of 1846 - 1848 & was the last port of call for the Titanic on it's maiden voyage in 1912.

Here's a photo of Cobh's waterfront... beautiful!

On my last visit to Cobh, I booked an independent tour with E-Coach/Butler Buses, highly recommended based on internet reviews. This was an all day tour & is priced considerably less than the cruise line option; We visited Cobh, Cork, Blarney Castle (with a Blarney Stone kiss) & we had free time in Kinsale for shopping and lunch!  I plan to book this one again! Click here for tour highlights and booking information.

Kinsale is a lovely quaint seaside town and is great for shopping and dining.

For lunch, or a substantial snack, try 'Fishy,Fishy'. For the best fish & chips in Kinsale, try Dino's; eating a bag of chips from Dino's (takeaway - NEVER eat in!)on the wall overlooking the harbour is compulsory in Kinsale!  We, however, decided to try a more local pub, The Lord Kinsale where I had wonderful fish and chips!


Blarney Castle and Blarney Stone - OK, I admit that I was not aware that you have to lean backwards to kiss the legendary Blarney Stone! But once kissing it, you are bestowed with the gift of eloquence! You will have the gift of gab & never again be at a loss for words!! This may be on my to do list again, for I never want to be without words! Here's a photo of the sign at Blarney Castle describing "all blarney"!  After seeing the castle, we explored the beautiful grounds.  Following our visit to the castle, we had a stop at the Blarney Woolen Mills, where I found some beautiful Irish tea towels and scarves... and a beautiful Irish emerald shamrock pendant!  It was a great day with E-Coach and Butler Buses!

Shore Excursion Option from Cobh, Ireland

 Blarney, Kinsale, Cork City, and Cobh Bus Tour
Shore excursion exclusively for cruise ships visiting Cobh and Cork, Ireland
Duration: 8 hours maximum, but may be shortened to suit sailing times
Departure/Return times: Tailored to suit sailing arriving and departure
Exertion: Moderate, except for Blarney Castle which has a lot of steps
2016 Pricing: 49 Euro per person

Tour Highlights:
·       Pass by Castles, Forts, Towers, Cathedrals and amazing scenery
·       Learn about Cobh’s connection to Titanic  and Lusitania
·       Kiss the legendary “Blarney Stone” and wander the magnificent gardens
·       Shop at The Blarney Woollen Mills (the world’s largest Irish store)
·       Driving tour through Cork City (the “Real Capital” or Ireland)
·       Take in stunning scenery and fascinating history at Charlesfort
·       Enjoy lunch and free time in Kinsale, “the gourmet capital”
·       Commentary from local guides
·       Modern air-conditioned coaches
·       Price for 2016 will be 49 Euro and will include fast track admission to Blarney Castle and Gardens.  Lunch is on your own.
Avoid disappointment and book early as this usually is a sell-out!  To book, visit the website for E-Coach http://www.ecoach.ie/

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Dublin, Ireland


Oh what to do in Dublin? I’m so excited to visit Ireland again!  One of my favorite book series is based in Ireland, and in particular Dublin. Celebrity Silhouette will dock in Dublin.  Large cruise ships typically dock at Alexandra Quay, an industrial area.  The port is about two miles from the city center. Here's a map of the city centre.

Everything that you've heard about the beauty of Ireland is true!  I am such a wannabe photographer!

For this trip to Dublin, I have booked a small private group tour with Denny's Dublin Tours.  His motto:  Don't just see Dublin; be a part of it!  Click here for more information on this tour.  It sounds like the perfect combination of what I want to experience in Dublin:  history, culture, beer, pubs, and Irish  music and dancing!  I can't wait! 

On our last British Isles cruise, we took the ship's "Dublin On Your Own" excursion and then took the HOHO Dublin bus tour; click here for details... just be sure to hop off at points of interest! The tours generally begin around 9:00 am and have live commentary. You can also get a discount by booking online. If you get to the city centre before the HOHO tour starts, then head to Bewley's Grafton Street Cafe for the best coffee in Ireland! Here's a photo that I took of a Dublin pub sign.

The Guinness Storehouse gets rave reviews so be sure to visit this excellent museum about Guinness beer. At the end you get to enjoy a pint at the top the glassed Skybar with 180 degree views of the city!

How about some good ole Irish whiskey? Then you will want to visit the Old Jameson Distillery for an exciting and engaging experience, guaranteed to enlighten and entertain any visitor. You will learn about John Jameson & Son through the history, the atmosphere, and above all the taste. "You will discover the time honored secret of how three simple ingredients- water, barley and yeast - are transformed into the smooth golden spirit that has always been and continues to be Jameson Irish Whiskey." After the Tour, all visitors are rewarded with a Jameson signature drink and lucky volunteers are selected to participate in a tutored whiskey comparison and earn a coveted personalized Whiskey Taster Certificate.

For lunch and a pint, head to the Brazen Head Pub, the oldest pub in Dublin - it dates back to 1198. It's good fun especially on a nice day as they have a great beer garden. It is very close to Christchurch/Dublinia. You can then tell your friends that you drank in the same pub as James Joyce and Michael Collins to name a few!

See the Book of Kells and its well-done accompanying exhibit on Irish monastic life at the Old Trinity College Library. The book of Kells was written around 800AD by Irish monks. When you leave Trinity College, turn left and you'll soon be at the head of Grafton street, a pedestrianized shopping area. Look for the statue of Molly Malone and her cart nearby & take a photo.We saw this group of Orange Men strolling through Dublin... sort of interesting!

Walk through the Temple Bar area (a cross between Greenwich Village and Soho) to the Liffey's south bank, cross over at the lacy pedestrian bridge called the Ha'penny Bridge and look for the statue of women shoppers nearby (locals call it The Hags With the Bags). Go back along the Liffey a few blocks to O'Connell Street, turn left and take a look at the General Post Office (big building with columns) which still has bullet holes from the Easter Rising. While walking along the river, make sure to go to the Custom House Quay and see the famine memorial.

We will have great fun in Dublin!

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Liverpool, England

With its musical heritage (The Beatles of course!), museums and galleries, cultural events, sporting events, pubs and dining establishments, Liverpool is a fun destination to visit!


Celebrity Silhouette will dock at the Liverpool Cruise Terminal in Liverpool, England. Nearly everything of interest is within a 10- to 30-minute walk or a short train or boat ride across the River Mersey. Just a bit of trivia – residents of Liverpool are referred to as Liverpudians.
The location is adjacent to the famous skyline trio of the Royal Liver Building, the former Cunard headquarters and the Port of Liverpool Building. These three buildings are called the “Three Graces”. Be sure to check out the Liver birds on top of the Liver building (pronounced Lie-ver); legend says that if they fly away then a great catastrophe will befall the city. For anyone with an interest in history, there’s an interesting plaque, built into a wall on the left of the Pier Head as you look toward the buildings. It commemorates more than a million American soldiers who passed through the port during World War II on their way to free Europe. We owe those men a multitude of thanks.. The plaque is relatively small and you may have to look for it; but stop by, take a photo and remember what we owe them.

It is only a ten minute walk to the Albert Dock for the Merseyside Maritime Museum, the Beatles Story and several good lunch time restaurants. Buses, including the hop-on-hop-off sightseeing tours, are a five-minute walk, while the ferries across the Mersey depart from an adjacent upriver landing stage. The historic center begins one block inland.

Click here for an informative website.
Although the Maritime Museum doesn’t open until 10am the buildings surrounding it are worth a visit themselves. This is the Albert Dock area. For anyone interested there is the Tate Art Gallery in the dock. This is touted to be one of the finest modern galleries outside London. Admission is free, but again it doesn’t open until 10am. After taking a look around the Pier Head and Albert Dock buildings, it should be time for the Maritime Museum to open at 10am. Again, admission is free, and inside you can find information and exhibits tracing the maritime history of this great city from its earliest beginnings right up to the present day. A favorite exhibit is the Titanic exhibition (Titanic was registered in Liverpool, the home of the White Star Line) or the ‘Liverpool in WW2’ area. You can spend up to two hours in here quite easily. There are also outside exhibits such as the Harbour Master’s house and many boats are open to the public. For those who like the Beatles there is a Beatles Museum (entry fee applies) at the Albert Dock. There are also tours which leave from around here. Be aware that this is a tourist area so it will get busy in August. You can get more info, and even book a tour online.

Anyone remember the song “Ferry Cross the Mersey” by Gerry and the Pacemakers? Click here for a YouTube video! After you have finished at the Maritime Museum, you should walk back to the Pier Head (you’ll only be a couple of hundred yards away) and take the Mersey Ferry tour; the first 50 minute tour begins at 10 am. Check out the timetable, so you’re not waiting too long. You can find this and even buy your (cheap) tickets online. The tour will take you about an hour. You can get a snack lunch onboard. After the tour you can then head up into Liverpool proper. Don’t forget you will still be right in front of your ship, so you can even go back on board, freshen up, have lunch and still have a full afternoon ahead.

A taxi up into the city centre will cost very little, as it’s only half a mile or so right up to say Lime Street Station. However, it’s much more interesting on foot. Remember that you are walking in the footsteps of your forefathers when you walk through Liverpool, as something like nine million people passed through the port en route to the new world.

If you're looking for a pub for lunch, try The Pump House. It's located on the dock and we loved it!
Of course, I ordered a pub specialty, beef and Abbott ale pie, and as you can see, I got quite a serving!
 

Those of you who are shoppers can head into the centre and visit the shopping centres in Church Street, Lord Street and the new ‘Liverpool One’ Centre.

Those of you still craving culture should jump a cab up to the Anglican Cathedral and visit the first of our two cathedrals. After visiting the Anglican Cathedral, take a walk back along Hope Street to see the magnificent Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ The King (Paddy’s wigwam to the locals). This was finished in 1967 and mass was said here by Pope John Paul II in 1982.

Monday, August 10, 2015

Belfast, Northern Ireland

Celebrity Silhouette will dock in Belfast.  Just to begin to whet your Irish appetite... see this beautiful YouTube video from a cruise passenger in Belfast! Yes, you will see that the music that accompanies this video is the theme song from the movie, Titanic. Titanic, dubbed "Queen of the Ocean" and the "Unsinkable" ship, was launched by the shipyard of Harland & Wolff in Belfast.

Check out the New York Times article of how to spend 36 Hours in Belfast.  We won't have 36  hours, but there are some great recommendations listed!

In Belfast, you can get a city tour on an open-top HOHO (hop-on hop-off) bus tour. This tour takes a little over 1 1/2 hours or so round-trip tour along some of the city's most impressive and evocative sights and includes many hop-on/hop-off points.

You can explore Belfast's darkest time by taking a walking tour of the history of terror in Belfast from Dead CentreTours, which gets great reviews on Tripadvisor.   You can tour the filming locations for the popular HBO series "Game of Thrones" and even pose for photos donning costumes!

On our last visit to Belfast, we took the ship's excursion of the Antrim Coast & Giant's Causeway and it was excellent.   Giant's Causeway is the only UNESCO World Heritage site in Northern Ireland. This region has been made famous by the Causeway Coastal Route which is seen as 'one of the world's great road journeys' and one of the most outstanding scenic car touring drives in the world featuring the Giant's Causeway.


Legend has it that the causeway basalt columns were created as stepping-stones by the giant Finn McCool in a bid to reach a giantess he'd fallen in love with on the Scottish island of Staffa. Unfortunately, the giantess's boyfriend found out, and in the ensuing battle, Finn pulled out a huge chunk of earth and flung it toward Scotland. The resulting hole became Lough Neagh, and the sod landed to create the Isle of Man. There are numerous legends of Finn McCool.


The Giants Causeway coastal route is absolutely breath takingly gorgeous!  We saw the ruins of Dunluce Castle, a medieval castle perched on top of a basalt cliff (Dunluce is one of the filming location for Game of Thrones).

As we drove along the coastal route, we saw golfers on a beautiful seaside course,
beautiful harbors and romantic inns,


And even cows on the beach!  What a photo-op!

 Is it time for lunch yet? Northern Ireland's traditional cuisine has its roots in potatoes and bread. The Ulster Fry is quite possibly the single most dish associated with Northern Ireland. It's generally served for breakfast or lunch.
Here's what it is: Irish back bacon, sausage, black pudding (look it up!), white pudding (same thing... look it up), fried soda bread, fried potato bread, fried egg, tomatoes and mushrooms (both fried, of course!), and a rack of toast. This is a traditional Irish breakfast! Check out this YouTube video for a tribute song to the Ulster Fry! How 'bout snack time? Ask any local to name their favorite crisps (or chips) and you'll probably hear 'Tayto Cheese and Onion, mate'. Made since the 1950s at Tayto Castle, Tandragee, these distinctive yellow packets with Mr Tayto logo have become an unlikely Northern Ireland icon.  And check this article out "5 Reasons Why Belfast Tastes Amazing", from an Ireland tourism website.