Malta, Taormina, Castelmola and Mt. Etna

More on Malta...we docked in Valletta, the capital city on Saturday. You can walk off the ship and get tickets for the hoho bus tour around the island. It's s great way to see the ancient capital of Mdina and get a good overview of the island The cost was 15 euro per person. Cathedrals, palaces, forts, beautiful gardens, and a war museum provided a full day of exploration. As we were in Valletta on Saturday, I think most of Malta's 370,000 inhabitants were on the marble pedestrian streets with us!! Maltese cuisine is similar to that of its closest neighbor, Sicily. Rabbit is a local favorite and we saw it on many menus as we were deciding where to lunch! Cafe Regina won our vote so we got a table for 2 at the outdoor cafe. Ken ordered one of the local seafood specialties, spnott otherwise known as sea bass. Presentation was beautiful with the whole fish nestled on sautéed veggies.. Eggplant, zucchini, onions, and tomatoes.

 
 Me, being a bit more timid, chose another local specialty of spaghetti bolognese... Just couldn't do the rabbit! The pasta was perfectly al dente and the sauce was a light tomato & minced beef with chunks of carrots. The side salad came with French fries! The tax rate in Malta is 18%! Though I searched the island, I saw no Maltese dogs while in Malta; but I did see dogs that reside in Malta! I miss my little Maltese dog Zoey!

We returned to our lovely home away from home to enjoy some iced fruit tea, zumba class, cocktails in sky lounge for sail away, and another yummy dinner in Blu with four friends. Prime rib was on the menu..prime rib, lobster, pheasant, pizza, pasta,.. How spoiled am I?

A highlight of this trip was Sicily! Sicily has been on my dream list and it did not disappoint! In fact, it surpassed my expectations. We had pre-arranged a tour for our group of 25 with "Sicily with Mario". This company is owned by brothers Mario and Ignazio. Ignazio, who must be a twin brother to my friend Bob, was an excellent guide. He picked us up pier side at 8:15 and we were on our way to Taormina! Taormina (village of the bull) is 35 miles from Messina where we docked. It was founded in 358 BC and is a breathtakingly beautiful town perched on high cliffs. My camera almost gave up on me because of over use! Every which way I looked was a stunning view and photo-op! We entered through one of the ancient city gates, visited S.Nicolas Cathedral, the Teatro Greco, Roman wall, ancient gardens, shopped along Corso Umberto, and savored a glass of local wine at a ristorante in Piazza 9 Aprile.

 Do you want to know about my shopping finds? To be honest, I was so busy snapping photos, that shopping took a back seat. However, I did find a fun shirt in a boutique.. It complements by black Capri tights so well.. Adorned with swarovski crystals that decorate a puppy dog sitting on a motorcycle, this shirt had my name written all over it! Though I really wanted a pair of Geox shoes, I will have to order them from Zappo's when I get home as they would put me overweight on luggage! I also purchased a few small ceramic pieces and a special chef apron that was embroidered before my eyes!

 Following our visit to Taormina, we boarded our bus to head high up the mountain to Castelmola. Castelmola translates to castle on rock.

My palms got a bit sweaty as our bus traveled along the winding road up and up and up to the little village. From here we got a superb view of the smoking Mt. Etna! Mt. Etna is the highest point on Sicily and is an active volcano, which erupted a week before this cruise. The smoke billowing out was white. Ignazio told us that it becomes darker, turning to almost black before an eruption. He offers tours up to Etna on big four wheelers so when we return we shall do this!... Unless I chicken out...it would be an adventure for sure. Lunch at La Taverna dell' Etna was delightful. We were seated on a terrace overlooking Mt. Etna. Being a pizza connoisseur, I chose pizza and tomato salad both of which were simply divine.

 With very little time for shopping, I did manage to purchase some jewelry made from Etna's lava rocks. Upon Ignazio's suggestion, we went into Turrisi Bar to see the unique works of art that decorate the restaurant...I must admit that I've never seen such decorative pieces...phallic symbols everywhere from door pulls, to ceramic jars, lamps, chandeliers, and paintings. Our friendly shop keeper gave us a menu or such that describes these art works.. I don't know if I have an appropriate place to display this at home!

 Before our trek back to Messina, Ignazio gave us a sample of the local almond wine, which you can evidently only get in Castelmola. I was quite pleasantly surprised..it was light and fruity with an almond flavor but not too sweet at all. Nicky from our group poured a taste of limoncello for each of us and some of our group slept all the way back to Messina! Following a quick tour of Messina, we boarded the Silhouette with an hour to spare before 6 pm sail away.

 Fortunately we were seated at a window seat in Blu for dinner so our table of 4 had an up close view of the majestic active volcano Stromboli which rises out of the ocean! A bit of Sicilian trivia now: swordfish are prevalent in the seas around Sicily so there are many swordfish boats. These are small boats that accommodate 6 to 8 fishermen and are usually owned jointly by the families. Singing by the fishermen attracts the fish! Perhaps my voice is more suited to fishing than to karaoke! This journey is coming to an end but the friendships and memories will last a life time. I'll probably do one more blog entry before we depart for home sweet home! Loving and missing you, Me

Searching for Maltese dogs in Malta

Good afternoon from Valletta, Malta!  We arrived here early this morning and jumped on a hop on-hop off bus for a tour of the island.  Malta is larger than I thought but just as beautiful.  I've seen a dog from Malta, but not a single Maltese dog!  I guess that's a good thing because if I saw one I would probably get homesick because I am missing Zoey!  After our tour we found this little internet cafe to catch up on mail, facebook, and such. We are going to find a typical Maltese restaurant for lunch and vino, wander and explore, and be back onboard the ship for our 6 pm sail away.  Yesterday we went to a lecture given by Captain Pagonis... we had met him previously at a senior officers' party for Elite Captain Club members and I knew he was a nice man!  He is so intelligent, witty, and even good looking!  His talk was excellent... I learned lots about navigation of this giant ships and even a secret or two from the Captain.  Do you know that he wears a green sock on his right foot and a red sock on his left foot so that he always knows which is starboard and which is port side of the ship???  Did you know that whales sleep on the surface of the ocean at night?  From the bridge, the look out uses night vision binoculars so that they don't hit one of the endangered species of whales, such as the right whale. What was for dinner??? Oh me oh my... it was lobster and was perfect even though it was a warm water lobster.  Food has been great and we are really enjoying the ship as well as the ports of call.  Tomorrow we will be in Sicily and I can't wait!!! Mt. Etna, Taormino, Castlemona, Godfather search, food and wine... what could be better? Thank you for your emails... they always make me smile and feel happy!   Love ya, Miss ya,     Me

Wine Tasting from Bari, Italy

Now it's Kalisera, as it's afternoon, in Corfu!  I don't have my notes so I will try to recap our wonderful day of wine tastings.  Giavanni and Maria were superb tour guides.  Our group of 11 cruise critic members were met pier side and hopped into our van.  We visited two wineries in the Puglia region of Italy.  We learned that "love is wine" and "wine is love" and that some Italian grandmas were given a glass of wine each night before bed and they had 12 children!!! LOL!

The first vineyard that we visited, Cantine Polvanera, was a smaller one and the owner and master wine maker, Filippo Cassona, was so handsome and sooo Italian if you know what I mean. We toured the vineyards as well as the cellar and had a tasting of spumante, red, and white wines.. note that the sampling was an ample serving in a Reidel glass and was served along with antipasto... bruschetta was prepared table side with olive oil from their farm and balsamic vinegar ... also served was foccacia with tomatoes, garlic, anmd olive oil... crackers and such.  oh my! 

We purchased a bottle to take back to the ship for enjoyment on our balcony.

The next winery was a larger and older one.  We learned how they bury cow horns in the soil beneath the vines ... I'll tell ya about that later.  Another tasting... and then on to Matera for lunch and a walking tour of the charming city with cave dwellings or Sassi

  Lunch was at a small local family owned trattoria... anti pasto plate with 4 cheeses, 4 meats (salami, proscuitto, etc.) and grilled vegetables along with bread, local red wine by the pitcher,pasta, and meats... lovely ricotta/coconut/almond/chocolate cake for dessert... I was in heaven.  Next up was a quick walking tour of Matera before heading back to the ship... I think we were the last ones onboard.. if you know Ken, you can imagine how he was checking his watch!!  OK, this Greek computer has stopped again... so signing off once more...

Love y 'all miss y'all,

Kalimera from Corfu, Greece

Greetings from Mamma Mia Island... well it sort of looks like it when you get out of the old town and fortress parts... found an internet cafe behind a old church...

have been all the way up to the new fortress which bounds the old city on one side and will now head to the old fortress... lots of steps, ancient ruins, beautiful views... well worth it.  the sea is azure and turquoise and crystal clear, while the skies are carolina blue!  Found some olive wood treasures ... and a beautiful oil/vinegar cruet but I don't think it will make it back in my luggage so that has to be left behind.  Also looking at ancient greek and roman coin jewelry on this trip.. i have a collection of sorts, with a couple of spanish treasure coin pendants, an old roman pendant, and a greek one... but we are looking for one with an interesting setting.  much of the gold here is 18 ct. thus far i have only seen one piece that made me smile.  we noted where the shop is so perhaps on the way out???  We plan to have a beautifully presented greek salad for lunch along with local vino.  we are so glad that we brought appropriate shoes as we have walked millions of miles on this trip and climbed thousands of steps! 

Now, let me catch you up on yesterday's wine tour to the Puglia region of Italy.  Our guides Giovanni and Maria took our group of 11 on the most wonderful day trip to visit two vineyards, walking tour of Matera, and lunch in a small local family owned trattoria.  This entire cruise has been wonderful, but this was a highlight... for some reason this greek computer is not letting me write as much as I want to, so I am signing off for now, but will send another email...  Love and Kisses, from Me

Kotor, Montenegro

I am walking around with my mouth open in awe!  I can't stop saying wow and taking photos.  The coast of Montenegro is like none other.. Huge limestone mountains reaching into the clouds coming straight out of the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic sea drew us right in.  Kotor  is very clean and the people are friendly... I'm in a youth hostel now using their wifi and my iPad... Rick Steves would be proud of me!   I found a few treasures yesterday in Dubrovnik .. Known for filagree jewelry I found a fish pendant with large eyes and purchased it from the designer ( or so he said).. We had a lovely fruit and yogurt along with s glass of croatian wine at Restaurant Dubrovnik, which was highly recommended on Tripadvisor.  Up and down the beautiful narrow streets.. Up leading to The Wall!!!  Following that we stopped for lunch at the Baracuda Pizzeria.  Some little soaps jumped into my bag before our return to the ship.  Onboard, it was pool time to enjoy the beautiful Croatian sun and work on my tan! Zumba class followed pool time, then cocktails in sky lounge (we are really enjoying our Elite perks)!  We tried once again to find Carlo but he is now in the martini bar.   We headed to the show which featured one of the West End theatre stars who performed in grease, les miserables, etc.  Lindsey Hamilton was phenomenally good.. Her show ended with "The Prayer" as a duet with our cruise director who sounded just like Josh Groban.   Dinner in Blu, martini bar to find Carlo, and a chocolate martini for dessert topped off a perfect day.  We finally met Carlo and he even  comped us a bottle of Opus One and signed it! Signing off now to explore more narrow cobblestone streets, take photos of the famous Kotor cats and sample montenegran food & wine... Tomorrow we will be in Bari, Italy for our independent wine tour to visit two wineries and the city of Matera.. Therenwill only be ten of us in a 24 seat van!! Love and kisses, Me

Walking Dubrovnik Walls

good morning from beautiful dubrovnik, croatia. itćs sunnz and beautiful here... please excuse mz spelling because this croation kezboard is not cooperating with me. we are at an internet cafe beside a piyyeria and novices we are, we are the help desk staff at this cafe. i think the z and y are misplaced but just hang with me and donćt laugh too much. croatian music is plazing everzwhere... accordians, dancers, folk songs, and more. the views are extraordinarz and i just maz have to walk the walks again. the first time i walked the old citz walls, i couldnćt make it all the waz around because of mz fear of heights. so perhaps i will trz it again... we will definitelz check it out. croatia is so verz beautiful and the people are so friendlz alnd helpful. as we did zesterdaz, we came over with susan and dan to get them started off on their daz.. setting them up with a walking tour. we will have lunch here... once again seafood specialties and piyya and pasta along with local wines are top notch. the selection of fun restaurants is so numerous that i shall go on tripadvisor to find a good selection for our lunch.

ken finalllz sorted out for me whz people on the jogging track are going in both directions. i alwazs to go counter clockwise thinking this is the correct waz. but on this ship, half go clockwise and half go counterclockwise..there are over 600 brits onboard and thez are going clockwise and we from the US go counterclockwise. lovelz dinner in blu last night.. mz cod was excellent and again i had sorbet for dessert. i am loving the sorbet so much. afterwards we joined david and judz for a chocolate martini at the martini bar.. it was girls night so we ladies enjozed ours at half price.

this morning we had breakfast in the elite lounge which is in the tuscan grill. the location at the verz aft with a wall of windows was perfect... as was mz cappucino.

OK I am stopping for now to get on with mz adventure...

love zall, miss yall (zippee.. i finallz got one of mz y in the right place

Koper, Slovenia and Split Croatia

Koper, Slovenia Dober vecer or good evening! Silhouette docked in Koper is a sight to behold! A beautiful modern ship rising out of the Adriatic Sea against the backdrop of the ancient walled city made for a perfect photo op. Upon disembarking a large group of Slovenian travel agents were waiting to embark for a tour of our ship. Slovenia is officially and culturally bi-lingual; Slovene and Italian are the official languages. Koper is clean and non-touristy. We had a do it ourselves day which was perfect as we like to be "unstructured" and unherded. Our self guided Koper Stroll was fun. We saw the ancient 7th century Cathedral of St. Nazarius with it's 5th century bell tower dominating Tito Square. The architecture is primarily Venetian. I discovered an interesting local handicraft shop with a lovely owner/ artist where I purchased a couple of treasures. Atelje Terracotta was the best shop in old town! As we were in town on Saturday, the flea market, fruit & vegetable market, and antique vendors were in full swing. I found a beautiful antique wooden bread board but it must've weighted 5 pounds & was large and bulky so I had to sadly leave it at the antique market for someone else. There was a HoHo bus that took you from Koper to Izola, Piran, and Potoroz and back to Koper. Some of the cruise critic group went to Lake Bled and some went to the Capital, Ljubljana. Our weather has held.. Rain was forecast, but it didn't rain on us! Following cocktails and appetizers for sail away in sky lounge, we had dinner in Blu.. Braised short ribs, lobster salad and coconut sorbet. By the way, those dining in the main dining room, Grand Cuvee are raving about the food too. Today we are in Split, Croatia, so dober dan (good day)! Sunny weather but rough seas made for tender problems... From the time we got our tender ticket until the time we boarded was almost 2 hours. Nonetheless we had another memorable day in gorgeous Split. This area is known as the Croatian Riviera and i can see why. Palm trees, seaside promenade, sidewalk cafes, azure sea along with the ancient walls make for a sort of a storybook feel. Speaking of story books, I searched all over for those 101 Dalmatians but never found even a single one! The focal point of Split is Diocletian's Palace, built in the 4th century. The entire of Old Town is within the palace walls! We found a lovely typical local restaurant for lunch. Croatian specialties are seafood, Dalmatian brodet (fish stewed with rice), pasta and pizza. Croatia is also known for wine...which we enjoyed with our lunch. Back on board Silhouette we stopped by for a spot of afternoon tea and relaxed a bit by the pool...oh yeah the pool band was just playing "Black Magic Woman" really loudly!! In my opinion, not the kind of music I want to hear in beautiful Croatia! Looking forward to tomorrow in Dubrovnik! Love ya, miss ya, Me

Venice and Ravenna, italy

After a long and cramped overnight flight we arrived in Venice on time and safely.  Our USAirway flight did not make Ken smile..though we had a 2seat row and he was on the aisle, there was little room between the rows.  After 8 hours though we were in Venice and made it through customs, onto our transfer bus, and on to the ship in about an hour.     We booked an aqua class room as we really enjoy dining in Blu, the specialty restaurant reserved only for aqua class passengers.  Did I mention that aqua class staterooms also enjoy special spa perks?  To add to our delight we are also Celebrity Elite passengers so we get lots of perks for this status as well.  Complimentary cocktails from 5 to 7 daily, special breakfast each morning in Tuscan Grill, free laundry(this one really brings a smile to Ken's face as he is my laundry man!) are only a few of the elite benefits.     A couple of notes about our time in Venice.  New since we were last in Venice a couple of years ago is the "people mover".  This makes it both convenient and inexpensive to get from the cruise terminal to Venice proper.  It's about a ten minute walk from the ship to the people mover monorail train.  Fare is one euro and the ride takes about four minutes into the Santa Croce area.  We happen to love Santa Croce, but you can walk to Rialto and San Marco in about 15 to 20 minutes.   I can hardly wait to get home to get my photos organized!! I took lots of photos of Venetian doors & door hardware, laundry hanging and dangling from windows and verandahs above the canals, flowers, gondoliers flexing their muscles, and of course food and wine!  Pizza, pasta, wine, and gelato in Venice did not disappoint.  We shared a pizza at Trattoria da Silvio, the Venetian pizza - tomatoes, mozzarella, olives, ham, and artichokes.  It was yummy.  We had fun in a little glass shop and got to know the owner and his daughter.  Then it was off to the Coop grocery store near Piazzali Roma to get those provisions that I didn't pack trying so hard to stay within the allowed airline luggage weight limit.   Sail away festivities were to begin at 4:45 pm at the sunset bar for our CruiseCritic group of 165.  We all retrieved our name tags and got acquainted.  Beautiful scenery, great Italian music (Andrea Bocelli), and new friends made for a memorable time.  Next on the agenda  was the elite cocktail party, then shower time, then the cruise critic party with our large group and the senior officers, followed by dinner in Blu with 6 new friends.     Just a little note about our cruise critic group:  countries represented are US, Australia, Belgium, Canada, Germany, Singapore, UK,  and United Arab Emirates so we are quite a diverse group.     My favorite from last evening's menu was the pistachio encrusted grilled scallops!  Being daring, I also had pheasant and yes it tastes like chicken.  We didn't finish dinner until after ten pm and were still a little jet lagged from our travels so I didn't hit the karaoke bar.   After a great night of sleep we awakened in Ravenna, Italy.  Breakfast of spinach tomato omelet and fresh squeezed orange juice fueled us until lunch time!  We hopped on the shuttle bus (14 usd round-trip per person) and were on the streets of old town Ravenna.  Ravenna is considered the gateway to the Emilia Romagna region.  There have been three recent earthquakes here, each resulting in some deaths so I was a bit concerned but all went well and we felt no tremors.     We saw the highlights of Ravenna, the beautiful mosaics in basilica San Vitale and the mausoleum di Galla Placidia,  Dante's tomb and then I was on a mission to find Ca' de' Ven for a lunch experience with local cuisine and wine.  I think Ken was ready to give up  but I finally found it and it was worth every moment of the search!  It's in an ancient building..enoteca vine di romagna .. Ken opted for the seafood pasta which he declared as the best he has ever had!!  Tagliatelli with clams, mussels, shrimp, calimari, langostino in a light tomato sauce.  I ordered another regional specialty, ravioli!  Yes, both seafood and stuffed pasta are both superb here.  Ken ordered local red and I had local white wine.  Oh me oh my!  I had come across this restaurant in my research so it was top of my to do list in Ravenna.     Now we are back on the Silhouette and will depart at 6 pm for Koper, Slovenia.  I'm going to zumba at 4 and then we will go to elite cocktail time, and meet our new friends for dinner in Blu at 8:30.     Love y'all, miss y'all, Hugs and kisses,  Me  

A Day of Airports

Yippee!! We are on our way! We stayed at the Residence Inn in Morrisville near RDU Airport last night. It was fine.. Staff was great, service was great, we are able to park our car there free for the entire time we are away (15 days!), complimentary shuttle to and from airport, breakfast, and clean rooms. It's not the newest Residence Inn but certainly met our needs. Our first flight from RDU to PHL was on time and just fine. We are now enjoying vino and snacks in the USAirways Club before we grab a bite at perhaps Chickie & Pete's for dinner. Then we will board our flight for Venice. There about 160 cruise critic "friends" on this cruise and we have been a planning and corresponding for months so it will be nice to put some names with faces. Ok, signing off for the moment.. But I'll be blogging next from venezia!

I am packed and ready to travel!

Yep, I'm ready to go... why am I awake and blogging at 4 am?  I just can't sleep... most be excited.   My bag to be checked comes in underweight, e.g., less than the 50 pounds we are allowed for no fee.  My carry-on is packed with my Ipad, Ipod, camera, phone, sun glasses, and hand wipes!  Oh yes... my hair accessories are in my carry-on too!  Don't want to be without those... my new favorites are called "snaps"!  We will arrive in Venice at 9:15 on May 30th and will use Celebrity Cruises transfer to get from the airport to the pier where we will embark Celebrity Silhouette.  After we get checked in and find our room to deposit our stuff, we will hit the road (or should I say canals?) to find some "provisions".  What provisions will we be in search of?  Well to stay underweight on baggage, I didn't pack sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, and such.  So we will go to the Coop Market near Piazzali Roma to get those things as well as the 2 bottles of wine that Celebrity will allow us to carry onboard.  We will also find a fun place for lunch complete with gelato for dessert. 

European Travel Tips & Practical Advice

Here are some recommendations and tips to help travelers to Europe prepare their trips & enjoy them safely.

Ø  Currency:  Euros are used in most every country except the United Kingdom.  We generally get some Euros before leaving home, but we also use ATMs in Europe (where the exchange rate is better).  American Express cards are not as widely accepted as they are in the U.S., but Visa and MasterCard are accepted almost everywhere.  Be sure to have a four digit PIN number. Many ATMs in Europe, as well as subway token dispensers, require a credit/debit card with an embedded chip.  Unfortunately, this type of card is uncommon in the States.  The only card issued in our area that includes a chip is from the State Employees Credit Union.

Ø  Notify your credit card company that you will be in Europe. 

Ø  Make copies of your passports and credit cards. Leave one copy with family or friends.

Ø  Pickpockets are common throughout Europe, especially in tourist areas.  Do not keep a wallet in your back pocket; wear a secure money holder. 

Ø  Toilets: In Europe the bathrooms (or WCs aka water closets) can be a challenge. Always have a few coins of local currency with you, as you may be charged for the privilege of using the WC.  Of course, my favorite option is to locate a cafe, pub, trattoria, or bistro and stop for a glass of local wine, beer, or caffe & then there is no charge for the WC!  You may find a toilet seat or you may find a trough type toilet that you are supposed to squat over. If you are lucky you will find toilet paper, but often as not, you must provide your own. I always carry a small pouch of Kleenex with me for this purpose. Once you complete your business, it can be a challenge figuring out how to flush the toilet. You may have to push, pull or wiggle any type of handle you can find within arm’s (or leg’s) reach.

Ø  Check with your insurance company to make sure your medical insurance covers out of country expenses.

Ø  Internet service:  Internet cafes are inexpensive & easy to locate.  Wi-Fi is generally available at McDonald’s restaurants worldwide.

Ø  Cell phone:  if you plan to use one, check with your provider regarding international calls.   We purchased an international cell phone online from Mobal. The cost of an international phone is as low a $29 and there are no further fees or charges unless you make or receive calls.  Note that this phone will not work within the U.S. and calling rates are reasonable. 

Ø  Clothing:  Comfortable shoes are a must.  You could walk a lot and there are many cobblestone streets throughout Europe.  In cathedrals, knees & shoulders should be covered; open-toe shoes and sandals are fine.  I pack a shawl in my backpack. 

Ø  Baggage Allowance:  Check with your airline; most airlines allow each passenger to check one bag of up to 50 pounds each and one carry-on. 

Ø  Packing:  What to wear for the overseas flight?  Be comfortable as what you wear will also be your jammies for the night!  Wear layers so that when you arrive at your destination you can be comfy there too!  (Your hotel room may not be ready).  Wear shoes that are easy to remove when going through airport security.  I generally take a large purse and a rolling carry-on.  Be sure to pack your medications, jewelry, airline tickets, passports, camera & accessories, laptop, Ipad, and other valuables in your purse or carry-on.  Take a book to read and eyeglasses; don’t forget your sunglasses!    Mark your checked luggage well with colored tape, ribbon, etc. so that you can easily identify it & be sure that your name & address information is on the bag. Don’t take good jewelry; it’s fun to purchase locally made jewelry as souvenirs.

Remember “The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.”
St. Augustine

Koper, Slovenia

“My Homeland, when God created thee, he blessed thee with both Hands and said, Merry People will live here.” –Ivan Cankar, Slovenian poet and writer

 We will be in Koper on Saturday, June 2nd & plan to wander around on our own to discover this charming town.  Wandering around Koper's Old Town, all narrow streets and Venetian-style houses, you could be forgiven that you had indeed crossed the border into Italy. You are as liable to hear Italian spoken as Slovenian, there are Italian signs everywhere, and it’s all a reminder that the border between one country and another has never really mattered all that much in these parts. Always something of a blur, it disappeared forever three years ago when Slovenia joined the Schengen block.

From what I've read, on Saturdays & Sundays during the cruise season a small tourist train will transport you for free every half an hour around the perimeter of old town right from the cruise dock. There is also a narrated hop on/off bus making a loop through Izola, Portoroz and Piran, all three beautiful seaside towns.  The fare is between 15 and 20 Euro.  Check at the port kiosks.  Departure times:  10 am, 11:30 am, 1 pm and 2:45 pm.  The earlier you go, the more time you can spend in each town (about 1.5 hours in each)

 Koper, like all of the Slovenian coast, is blessed with some wonderful fish and seafood restaurants. Look out for Koper style fast food too, Okrepčevalnica bars: small, Italian-style places which serve great food of the primo, secondo piatti variety at lunchtime. You can usually eat very well here for a fraction of the cost of a restaurant.  That being said, I think we may have lunch at Skipper overlooking the marina.  The  reviews are quite good and we will get to try some Slovenia seafood dishes!  Here's  YouTube video of Skipper.  Now that I know where to sample the local cuisine, I am happy!

Ravenna, Italy

Where next after the big Italian cities?  Why Ravenna of course!

Having been to many of the major Italian cities, I am excited to be visiting Ravenna.  From what I’ve learned, we will see some of the finest mosaics in the world in some of the oldest churches.  Most everything, from Dante’s tomb to the best fast food around, is within walking distance in a pedestrian center, Piazza del Popolo.  We should be able to enjoy the best of what Ravenna has to offer… the Early-Christian and Byzantine mosaics of the fifth and sixth centuries featured in the Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Museo Orcivescovile, Battistero Neoniano, Basilica di San Vitale and Mauseleo di Galla Placidia. 

A bit of trivia that I learned is that the mosaics at the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia inspired the American songwriter, Cole Porter.  In the   1920’s while honeymooning in Ravenna he wrote “Night and Day” remembering the beauty of the starry sky mosaics of Mausoleum of Galla Placidia.

Ravenna is in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy and is sometimes dubbed “Italy’s Food Basket”.   It’s home to many of Italy’s most renowned foods:  Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and balsamic vinegar are a few.

Click here for a Rick Steves YouTube video of Ravenna... I can't wait to make my own video!

 

If you know me, then you know that I want to sample the local cuisine!  Where do I want to do my sampling?  Why Ca’ de Ven of course!    According to Lonely Planet, it’s a wonderful cavernous enoteca-cum-restaurant in a 15^th century palazzo with frescoed domes, vaulted brick ceilings and checkerboard marble floors.  We will be in Ravenna on a Friday so Ca’ de Ven will be open much to my delight!  If, however, you are in Ravenna on a Monday and Ca’ de Ven is closed, then Bizantino, located in the Mercato Coperto (covered market)  in the historic centre, has been recommended.  I also plan to make a stop at a piadinerie for piadina.  Piadina is thin Italian flatbread and it’s served with cold cuts, jam, Nutela or regional cheeses.  Tortellini and Cappelletti, Bolognese sauce, and local wines such as SanGiovese should not be missed!  Here's a YouTube video of Angela Schiavina's food tour to whet your appetite!

Ready for a quiet reflective moment?  Dante’s tomb is a quiet & restrained resting place for the author of “The Divine Comedy”.  Don’t miss the little oil lamp hanging above the tomb.  Burning permanently, it is paid for by the city of Florence in penance for ejecting the poet in 1372!

Meet Elliott, Our Mascot

Elliott has been cruising with us since 2006, so this is his 7th year of cruising! He was born in the jungles/rain forests of Panama and adopted by me. He loves shipboard activities... you may see him at the disco, horse races, or even in the dining room (he is partial to bananas)...

Cattail Adriatic Cruise 2012

We are going on this one! It's 13 days starting in Venice and ending in Rome on Celebrity Silhouette. I am excited by the itinerary and the ship!  Our cruise will embark and overnight in Venice. I can't wait to get back to Venice! Spritz con aperol, gelato, pizza, pasta, seafood, gondolas, murano glass, burano lace, handsome gondoliers flexing their muscles, water water everywhere!

Adriatic Cruise Itinerary

13 Day Cruise May 30 - June 12, 2012 on Celebrity Silhouette

Wed. May 30 Venice, Italy – embark and overnight on the ship
Thur. May 31 Venice, Italy – depart 5 pm
Fri. June 1 Ravenna, Italy 7 am – 6 pm
Sat. June 2 Koper, Slovenia 8 am – 6 pm
Sun. June 3 Split, Croatia 8 am – 6 pm
Mon. June 4 Dubrovnik, Croatia 8 am – 6 pm
Tues. June 5 Kotor, Montenegro 8 am – 6 pm
Wed. June 6 Bari, Italy 8 am - 6 pm
Thur. June 7 Corfu, Greece 8 am – 6 pm
Fri. June 8 At Sea
Sat. June 9 Valletta, Malta 8 am – 6 pm
Sun. June 10 Sicily (Messina), Italy 8 am – 6 pm
Mon. June 11 Naples/Capri, Italy 7 am – 6:30 pm
Tues. June 12 Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy arrive 4:30 am Disembark ship

Adriatic Cruise Itinerary Map

European Travel Tips: Money Matters

All of the countries that we will visit use the Euro as currency, with the exception of Croatia. Croatia uses the Kuna. Now for a bit of trivia..."kuna" means marten, a weasel like animal, whose fur Croats used for payment many centuries ago!

Ken & I plan to get some US dollars exchanged for Euros before our departure. Note that credit cards (Visa and MasterCard much more than American Express) are accepted in most shops & restaurants worldwide. Just a note regarding credit cards: note that credit cards with chips rather than magnetic strips are more common in Europe; so you may not be able to get cash from an ATM unless your card has a chip. Not all US credit card companies issue cards with chips but we were able to get one from a credit union last year prior to our overseas trip. It is very easy to use ATMs in Europe to withdraw local currency and the charge is minimal; just be sure that you have a 4-digit PIN. As far as "spending money", cash is needed for some street vendors' touristy items, private tours and for taxis, etc. Remember that tour guides are usually given a tip... it can be in US dollars or Euros for ship's tours; for private tours, it should be in local currency.

Please be sure to let your credit card company know that you will be abroad. Also, have a way to secure your money and credit cards (i.e., inside shirt, belt, etc.) I usually take a small backpack with handwipes, lipgloss, camera, sunscreen, water, etc., but have my money, credit card, etc. close to my body.

Countdown to our Adriatic cruise!

Read and post cruise reviews

European Travel Tips - Restrooms

I will be posting a few travel tips throughout this blog. Here is an important one to note! Bathrooms: In Europe the bathrooms (or WCs aka water closets) are always a challenge. Always have a few coins of local currency with you, as you may be charged for the privilege of using the WC. Of course, my favorite option is to locate a cafe, pub, trattoria, or bistro and stop for a glass of local wine, beer, or caffe.... then there is no charge for the WC! You may find a toilet seat or you may find a trough type toilet that you are supposed to squat over. If you are lucky you will find toilet paper, but often as not, you must provide your own. I always carry a small pouch of Kleenex with me for this purpose. Once you complete your business, it can be a challenge figuring out how to flush the toilet. You may have to push, pull or wiggle any type of handle you can find within arm’s (or leg’s) reach. OK, that all being said, I don't expect to find many primitive type WCs on our cruise!

My Favorite Limoncello Recipe

After first being introduced to limoncello in Italy, an Italian neighbor gave me his special recipe.  Since that time, I've made quite a few "batches"!

Salvatore’s Italian Limoncello

One bottle Everclear (grain alcohol)

8 lemons

2 pounds sugar and one quart water – to make simple syrup.

Wash the lemons and pat dry.  Using a potato peeler, take all the lemon rinds off of the lemons so there is no white pith on the peel.  Place the rind peelings in a large container with the Everclear alcohol.  Cover the container and let it sit for seven days.

On the eighth day, strain the peels from the alcohol; discard peels.

In a large saucepan, make a simple syrup by combining the water and sugar; let it simmer for 15 minutes. Let simple syrup cool to room temperature.  Add to alcohol.  Pour into bottles.  Makes enough to share with friends!

Chill (in refrigerator or freezer).

You are now finished!  Enjoy!

Venice!

Ah, Venezia! City of Love, City of Light, City of Water, City of Bridges, Queen of the Adriatic... so many wonderful nicknames for an enchanting city. Click here for a wonderful Youtube video of Venice.

We embark Silhouette on May 30th and overnight in Venice so we get to spend one night in this beautiful place!  If anyone wants to stay several nights before the cruise embarks, I highly recommend the Papadapoli Venezia located in Santa Croce on a canal and not far from Piazzali Roma. We stayed here a few years ago and found it be very lovely and convenient.

Want to avoid queues and get tickets in advance? Click here and you can purchase tickets for the Doges Palace, Doges Palace Secret Itineraries Tour and other museums. On the Secret Itineraries tour, you will see the secret passageways and offices of the Doges, where Cassanova was imprisoned and much more. Go to the fish market near Rialto for lunch, the Jewish Ghetto (at the museum they will give a guided tour) At night sit down in St. Marks Square for the most expensive cup of caffe you have ever had, but listen to the most wonderful violin music. Stop and have a gelato….feed the pigeons and visit the bell tower, the church, take a gondola ride, especially an evening gondola ride with serenade!

Shopping in Venice? How about Murano glass? glass cherries and glass candies make a beautiful display in a glass vase or bowl on a coffee table, Murano glass wine bottle stoppers, glass jewelry, glass beads (also known as Venetian pearls)… Walk into the back areas of Venice (with a map!) and just wander; you'll come across many lovely smaller shops with the most spectacular pieces in their shop windows (i.e. get further away from the Grand Canal) and perhaps be able to negotiate a little if you pay cash and come away with a stunning piece (or more)! Venetian Carnevale masks are also beautiful souvenirs! Don't miss the fabulous jewelry shops surrounding Piazza San Marco; if you like fine jewelry....some of the most beautiful and original design and interesting stones in the world! Also if you like fine linens, the table and bed linens are wonderful!

Italian tenors interest you? How about this for a nice Venetian evening: An opera performed in a historic Venetian Palace, Musica Palazza. Here's a youtube video for an online experience of the performance and palace. 


Venice's Top 11 Free Sights
From: Venice for Visitors, http://veniceforvisitors.com

1. Piazza San Marco

2. Basilica di San Marco

3. Venice Waterfront (St. Mark's Basin)

4. Grand Canal

5. Rialto Bridge

6. Rialto Food Markets

7. Venetian Ghetto

8. Canali, campi, calli (canals, squares, and back streets)

9. Churches (Salute, Carmini, and others that don't charge admission)

10. Shopping Streets

11. Islands of the Lagoon (San Michele cemetery, Murano, Burano, Torcello, Lido)

Concerning WCs in Venice: There are public wc's and the cost is generally 1.5 Euro. As in any European country, be sure to bring some toilet paper in your bag or backpack. Of course, you can always stop for a glass of vino or a cup of caffe and use the restaurant wc!

Some links to helpful website:
Venice Connected
Port of Venice Information for Cruise Passengers
Venice for Visitors

Dubrovnik, Croatia

George Bernard Shaw was enchanted by this beautiful city, about which he said "those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and see Dubrovnik", as well as, famously, describing it as "the pearl of the Adriatic". Dubrovnik will not disappoint as we can attest! I think we will be anchored in the old port. You will be able to walk into the old town in about 3 minutes. On the main street, the Stradun, you will find several ATM machines to obtain Croatian Kuna.

The old town, with its well preserved city walls is a destination unto itself. Be sure to walk the walls - Due to my fear of heights, on my previous attempt (yes attempt!), I did really well but didn't make it all the way around (or all the way up in some cases). The walls and towers begged to be climbed and explored and they completely encircle the old city. This is quite an exhilerating experience with superb views of the city and the coastline. It will take about 2 hours to walk the walls completely and you will be charged a small fee. Be sure to take your camera!

The old city is fun to explore with its maze of small streets. As you explore, you should take some of the side streets to go higher and higher. You will see many outdoor cafes, boutiques with local souvenirs, wines, etc., and residences. You will be smiling as the residents of Dubrovnik are so friendly... and the food is so good! The Stradum is the "main street", often called the most beautiful street in the world. It begins with a monastery and ends with a great square with a Venetian-style palace and a beautiful church... but venture onto the side streets and the streets that run parallel to it, on the water side. There you will find more unique restaurants and shops.

Shopping anyone? One shopping find is at the working pharmacy in the Franciscan Monastery, just inside the Pile Gate. The pharmacy makes several face and hand creams and infused water (rose and lavendar) to original recipes from 1317 and sells them in the shop. If you tell them its for gifts, they will put them in special bags too. Examples are lemon hand lotion, rose face cream, and a moisturizer with jojoba and menthol that smells like lemon yogurt. Other local items include home made honey, Croatian neckties (neckties may have originated here!), embroidered linens, and filagree dangly earrings

Hungry after walking the walls? How about Restaurant Orhan? Want to try a local wine? Peljesac red wine is wonderful.

Click here for a map of Old Town Dubrovnik. or here for another map

Split, Croatia

The Celebrity Silhouette will be in Split from 8 am - 6 pm, & it's a Sunday... so I hope things will be open for business!

Overlooking the Adriatic Sea and backed by the Dinaric Mountains, Split was founded when Diocletian, a ruler of the Roman Empire for two decades, built his retirement home here in AD 295. Most of Split's monuments are located in Grad, the old town, where you can see Diocletian's Palace. Grad is pedestrian only so you will have fun wandering in the old city.

East of the town walls, you will find the colorful markets. The official word for open-air markets in Croatian is Trznica, but in Split these cult places of local food shopping are called Pazar and they are open daily & more importantly for us, on Sundays from 8-11 am. You can stroll around the tables laden with fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers, meats, seafood and cheeses (don't miss the opportunity to try Livanjski sir or paski sir, local cheeses). Here you will also find fresh honey products ranging from Kadulja honey from Biokovo to Lavender honey from Hvar.

There is a hop-on hop-off bus which is a great way to see Split, or you can arrange a walking tour. On our last visit to Split, we did both.  The HOHO bus takes you around Split and up to the mountain top for some special views.  The walking tour was great... you can do it on your own, but it was so nice to have a guide explain what we were seeing.  After the tour, we headed to an outdoor cafe for some Croatian wine, refreshment, and people watching.

A bit of Croatian trivia: The original “Croata” tie - a neck tie was first worn by Croatian horsemen who fought on the European fronts from the 17th century to the French revolution; at which time the French adopted this fashion and gave it the name “cravate” (meaning “Croat”).

Click here for a youtube video of Split, courtesy of Rick Steves!
Click here for a website with lots of great information on Split!

Corfu, Greece

We will be docked in Corfu (Kerkyra) on Thursday, June 7th from 8 am - 6 pm. Corfu is the greenest, much lush, of the Greek isles and is often called the Emerald Island. The mean temperature in June is 75 degrees F. Distance from the pier to the town is about 2 miles (20-30 minute walk) but taxis will be readily available.  Corfu's Greek name, Kerkyra, is connected to 2 powerful water symbols; Poseidon, god of the sea and Asopos, an important Greek mainland river. Two fortresses (or castles) enclose the old city of Corfu Town.  Two years ago when we visited Corfu, we spied a shuttle bus to centre for 1.20 Euro, so we hopped on that without a second thought! It was a good thing, as we walked and climbed and walked and climbed in the old town... up to the tippity top of the Fortress to get those great photo ops! It never ceases to amaze me when I see ancient buildings and ruins. It's difficult to imagine such ancient times with gods & goddesses and gladiators, etc.

After our self made tour to the top of the Fortress and such, it was time for a "traditional Greek lunch" ... so we found a cafe, Piperitsa, Plakada Agiou, near St. Spyridon Square. We chose well... OK, I will give credit to Ken as he chose it! We both ordered a Greek salad and white wine for me and red wine for Ken. Our salads were so beautiful, that I took a photo, which I just may submit to a magazine!!!! I have ordered many Greek salads, but this one "took the cake" so to speak. It was amazingly beautiful and yummy. Fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, butter lettuce, Kalamata olives, feta cheese (of course!) and olive oil/vinegar for dressing. This is a memory that will indeed last forever. We got to know the family owners, (mom, pop, 10 year old daughter, puppy dog) and we plan to have lunch at Piperitsa again!

My Greek Salad at Piperitsa

'Corfu town is Venice and Naples, a touch of France and more than a dash of England, apart of course from being Greek' - Countess Flamburiari. Old Corfu Town is a maze of narrow cobblestone streets dominated by a 16th century fortress.

A visit to the Achillion Palace, built by Queen Sissy of Austria at the end of the 19th century is a highlight. The Empress's obsession with the Greek mythology and especially with Homer's Iliad & Ulysses influenced the whole architecture and decoration of the palace, which is built in neo-classical style and has elements of Ionian, Roman and Eolithic styles. Its gardens are decorated by many sculptures and have stunning views on the island.

After Achillion Palace you will come to Corfu Town, where you will see the exceptional mixture of architecture influenced by four great civilizations: the Old Fortress, New Fortress, famous Liston Street, the Royal Palace, and of course the Saint Spyridon church, named after the Patron Saint of the island.

Map of Old Town Corfu - includes locations of sites for a do-it-yourself walking tour.

Shopping
You will find small shops of almost every commercial nature, including a multitude of gold shops; Corfiot craftsmen excel at designing and making Greek jewelry in gold at competitive prices. Small stalls with local wild honey, fig cakes, and hand made lace may tempt you too. Pottery, leather goods, olive wood objects make nice remembrances. Shops are generally open from 9am-2pm and 6pm-8:30pm Monday through Saturday.

Lunching
The Old Town is packed with tavernas, restaurants, and cafes. Many will have outdoor seating, great for people watching and enjoying the Grecian sunshine! The most famous Corfiot dishes show the influence made on the island by the Venetians: Pastitsada is a meat and pasta dish, Bourdeto is a peppery fish stew, Bianco is a white fish stew infused with garlic and Sofrito consists of sliced veal cooked with garlic, parsley and vinegar. However, the traditional meat in Corfiot cooking is lamb and it features in many of the island’s day-to-day dishes, although pork, beef and chicken are also popular choices. The meats are cooked with Corfiot herbs; mainly oregano, parsley, dill, mint and basil and are often grilled or roasted with onions and garlic. If you're a seafood fan, you won't be disappointed as the Corfiots like to eat their fish almost as soon as it is off the hook! Seafood will usually be baked or grilled over open fires & local herbs, olive oil and lemon are used for seasoning.


Another Corfu sampling would include the kumquat, a small bittersweet tasting orange, not found anywhere else in Greece. They are preserved and eaten whole or soaked in syrup. Kumquats have been called "the little gems of the citrus family", and local Corfiots seized on the opportunity, once they realized that the fruit could be fermented and distilled into liquors. As well as liquors, kumquats are made into sweets and marmalades. Many of the tourist shops in Corfu sell Kumquat products one of the more famous shops you will find is located next to the "Achillion Palace"

Naples/Capri/Amalfi Coast, Italy

Napoli, Capri, Pompeii, and the beautiful Amalfi Coast - picture postcard perfection!  This will be our fourth visit here and I am looking forward to it as much as my first visit!  

The first time we were in Naples, we took the ship’s tour which included Pompeii, Sorrento and Capri.  Be sure to see Pompeii; there is nothing like it in the world.  The Isle of Capri is beautiful!  It was a full day but we saw a lot.  We had lunch in a wonderful restaurant in Sorrento and I remember the waiter serving me profiteroles for dessert and saying “Amore” while he did so. 
  
Ah, Italy.  The next time we were in Naples, we once again took a ship’s tour which included an olive and lemon farm.  We saw how olive oil is made.   We were served a light lunch of Italian cheeses, salami, wine, and limoncello!   Delightful!  Another time we took a tour which allowed us to spend a bit of time in Sorrento where I shopped for Italian figurines and pottery.   We also made another trip to a family farm where we had an wonderful lunch of antipasto, pasta, cheeses, bread, olive oil, and wine... followed by a limoncello tasting!  I dream of it still!

The next time, we did an independent tour of the Amalfi Coast with a group of 6.   We saw Amalfi, Positano, Ravello, and had a wonderful Italian lunch in a charming local family-owned restaurant overlooking the sea.  The lunch was a family style tasting menu and included wine and all flavors of limoncello.  I bought some beautiful pottery, some watercolor paintings, and, of course, limoncello.  Roberto, our guide, was excellent... both as a guide and a driver as we squeezed past vehicles on those hair pin turns.  Many vehicles are without side mirrors as they have been knocked off on these narrow mountain roads! 

This year, we may explore Naples on our own, since we have never really seen Naples!  I like the idea of a fellow cruiser to have a quest for the best pizza in Naples!  As pizza originated in Naples, this makes sense to me.  The Margherita - tomato, mozzarella, & basil, for the three colors of the Italian flag is a local favorite.  It was created in  honor of the visit of Queen Margherita of Spain in 1889.  Interestingly enough, Eggplant Parmesan also originated in Naples.  Another regional specialty is linguine cozze e vongole (spaghetti with clams or mussels)  as seafood is abundant and excellent. 


Click here for information on Naples Sight Seeing HOHO Tours.  You purchase only one ticket for up to three routes.  Frommers has a great map of a self guided walking tour of Naples. 


Though I can be claustrophobic at times, I want to do the Underground Walking Tour in Naples.  The New York Times has a great article about this city under the city.  You can also learn more at the Napoli Sotterranea site. 

Rome - The Eternal City, The City of Fountains

 

Roma!  What can I say?  It is wonderful!  Rome is one and a half hours from the port of Civitavecchia.  You won’t have enough time to see everything, so try to get to the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain (be sure to toss some coins to insure  your return to Rome), the Pantheon, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, and the Vatican Museum if you can. We took a ship sponsored tour on our first Mediterranean cruise and were not disappointed.  We saw all of the sites and had a traditional Italian lunch complete with wine!  I was so enchanted that I asked the maitre d’ for a souvenir book of matches and he gave me a bottle of Chianti, saying “For you… Come Back to Roma, Ciao” and then a big hug and kisses on both cheeks.  We enjoyed the Chianti on our balcony later that evening while listening to Andrea Bocelli’s “Con Te Partiro! 

The next time we arrived by cruise ship, we took the ship’s tour “Rome on your Own”.   The tour bus takes you to Rome, drops you off in Vatican City, and brings you back to the ship later that day.  Rome is very walkable, but you will need a map, which you will get from your bus driver.  There are several hop-on hop-off buses that will give you a great overview.  If you do Rome on your own, be sure to have lunch in Piazza Navona.  It’s one of the fun piazzas in Rome with lots of musicians serenading you as you dine.  And most definitely be sure to have gelato!  It is “out of this world”! 

The third time we visited Rome, we spent several days before embarking our cruise so we got a true feel for Roma. Once again, we did the hop-on hop-off bus and visited all the great sites & had lunch in a most wonderful pizzeria, complete with the best salad I've had in my entire life and wonderful vino... Ken had the house red & I had the house white.  The house wines in Italy are to die for!  The pizzas aren't so great in Rome but the pasta is pretty good.  
This time we stayed at the MarcellaRoyal Rome & I highly recommend it, as well as Stefano of RomeCabs who provided our transfers.  Stefano also provides wonderful tours of Rome as well.  The Marcella Royal Hotel is a boutique hotel in a quieter neighborhood of Rome; but it’s only about a 15 to 20 minute walk from some of the major historical sites.